copenhagen2007: March 2007 Archives

Spring Weather

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These past few weeks have been quite sunny and wonderful -- still not out of the 50s, but warm enough to go around without my winter jacket. This Saturday I went out on walk around town. Under the enormous tree in Gråbrødretorv, outdoor diners made the most of the sun:

The top floor of Illums Bolighus provided a wonderful view over Amagertorv, as shoppers flooded Strøget:

Swans enjoy the sun on the edge of Peblingesø:

The sunlight casts the brickwork of the old University buildings into relief:

Flâneurs congregate at the corner of Larsbjørnsstræde & Sankt Peders Stræde:

Danish Grasshopper

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Danish Grasshopper

Walking north through Frederiksberg on Thursday I came across this insect crossing the sidewalk in the afternoon sun. After a bit of confusion as to whether it was a grasshopper or a cricket -- thankfully resolved by Anders -- I now feel comfortable presenting it to the world with full taxonomological certainty.

I've processed some more pictures from my recent trip to the Arnamagnæan Institute, which holds many medieval manuscripts in Old Norse.


Peter Springborg shows us how to read a manuscript

The star of the show was definately Reykjabók, a wood-bound copy of Njál's Saga from 1300 AD.

You can get a good view of the thickness of the wooden covers in this shot:

Of course, finding an unblemished piece of cow- or sheepskin was not always easy. Sometimes the animal had a scar or other imperfection in the skin, which resulted in texts like this:

Modern layout artists have enough trouble wrapping text around round graphics, imagine what it was like to be a medieval monk and have to write around a literal hole in the text.

Even if the parchment started off whole, it didn't always end up that way. If I recall the story correctly, the below example was cut into such a strange shape in order to fit into a piece of clothing -- perhaps a bishop's mitre? -- and provide structural support:

The Institute also has a number of more recent, though still quite old, texts. Here is what I believe to be the first printed edition of Njál's Saga, from the 18th-century, next to the 13th-century manuscript:

Finally, a jewel-like example of Sjællandske lov, the laws of Zealand from the middle ages until 1683. The curator's gloved hands give a sense of the size of this volume:

Scan|Design Dinner

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Tonight all five recipients of the Scan|Design Fellowship met in Copenhagen, four of us from the capital and one who is studying in Århus. We shared dinner with Marianne, a professor of Danish at UW, and Jennifer, from the UW Architecture department. Afterwards we headed out to Café Europa at Amagertorv and enjoyed coffee and desert.

The next big trip we have together is a ferry to Oslo for the May 17th celebrations, coupled with some hiking nearby.

The other photos from the dinner are here.

A few of my coworkers at the Museum Tusculanum Press are involved in Apparatur, a literary and art journal published here in Copenhagen. In addition to publishing fiction and poetry, together with visual art, Apparatur is putting on a series of readings and performances as part of the Decemberisterne annual exibition at Den Frie Udstillingsbygning, near Østerport Station. (The Decembrister are a group of artists, started in 1928, with a focus on the figurative and the humanistic in art.)

Tonight was the first night of Apparatur's program, with readings by the Danish authors Martin Glaz Serup, Ursula Andkjær Olsen and Seimi Nørregaard, in addition to a conceptual performance piece distinguished by both sliced cucumber and electric trombone.

Here are the rest of the pictures from the Apparatur Evening.

earnest.jpg On Wednesday night we all met up with UW Architecture lecturer Jennifer Dee at the Danish Film Institute, where we enjoyed a screening of the 1952 version of The Importance of Being Earnest. Seeing how the 1950s Danish subtitles tried to keep up with Wilde's wordplay was quite interesting.

After the movie, we went to Cafe Norden on Østergade where we spent a very pleasant couple of hours, enjoying the hot chocolate and cake.

Studieskolen

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On Monday of this week I sat down and took the written/oral test at Studieskolen, the language school that instructs most foreigners in Danish in the Copenhagen/Frederiksberg area. In most cases, this instruction is free -- but for residents of Frederiksberg, such as myself, there's an administrative fee of about $187 per 6-week course. Before the course begins, you have to take an entrance exam, which ensures you'll be placed in the correct level. For unknown reasons I actually placed quite highly, and will start on April 10th at the second-highest level: Module 5.2, Dansk 15-16. They were going to place me in 17-18, but then they realized there's nothing higher than that in case I want to continue with a second 6-week course. So I'll start out in 15-16 and can then continue on to 17-18 for further challenge.

Interestingly enough you can choose between daytime and evening classes. Each covers the same material, but the daytime courses go more slowly, adding up to 80 hours over 6 weeks. The evening courses cram the same material into 40 hours total. My choice may be dictated by my class schedule at Copenhagen University, as I have one class (Testimony from the Welfare State) which meets on Friday at the same time as the Studieskolen classes do.

After the book sale today I went to a presentation at the The Arnamagnæan Institute, which holds the collections of medieval manuscripts collected by Árni Magnússon. These originally included many Icelandic sagas and histories which have been now sent back to Rekjavík, but what we looked at today was quintessentially Danish: Jyske lov, the 13th-century Jutlandic lawbook. There are about 45 copies preserved at the University of Copenhagen; ironically, the oldest in the world is in Sweden.

Jyske lov (Jutlandic Law)

The law is most famous for its opening phrase,

Meth logh scal land byggies

(the spelling is obviously variant through most of the known examples), a phrase which is carved into the mantle of the Danish parliment (folketing) and which means "land shall be built with law." The opening continues (in modern Danish)

men vilde enhver nøjes med sit eget og lade andre nyde samme Ret, da behøvede man ikke nogen Lov. Men ingen Lov er jævngod at følge som Sandheden, men hvor man er i Tvivl om, hvad der er Sandhed, der skal Loven vise Sandheden.

which means roughly "...but if everyone were to be satisfied with their own and let others enjoy the same right, then one would need no law. But no law is as good to follow as the truth, but where one is in doubt about the truth, then law shall show the truth."

Surprisingly they let us touch the parchment of the above example, for which I don't know the date. It felt smooth and slightly soft, sort of like you would expect half-millenium-old cow skin to feel.

Anders, Thomas and Christian set out books

Today was the beginning of the weekend's Humanities Festival at the University of Copenagen. During the afternoon, I worked with a bunch of the staff at the University's press (Museum Tusculanum) to set up the bookstore for passers-by. Surprisingly we sold a few of our most expensive titles, which in Denmark means about US$80. These were mostly hardcover specialty books, some art-related with high-quality reproductions. It was interesting to watch groups of people pass by the book table and run over to specific titles, depending on whether they were anthropologists or sociologists or other members of other disciplines.

Museum Tusculanum Book Sale

arvo.jpg

Saturday night I was lucky enough to score some free tickets to the premiere of American Mixture at the Royal Ballet. Three cheers for co-worker connections. The ballet is a combination (thus the title) of three discrete pieces by different coreographers, ranging in style from hard rock to modern classical. The middle section is actually set to the music of the Estonian composer Arvo Pärt -- I don't know the exact title, but I've heard it many times before on an album my mother owns. Above, a picture from that movement (not taken by me, obviously, although the seats we were in would have afforded a similar view.)

During the break in between the dances I wandered throughout the building, checking out the formal halls and reception rooms. I started to scan the crowd to see if I would recognize anyone from work or my classes -- Denmark is such a small country, you're almost guaranteed to bump into somebody you know at big events. Sure enough, I recognized Marianne, one of my Danish professors from the US, who had flown into Denmark for a week of meetings with various universities in the capital.

Interestingly the Royal Theater is constructing an entirely new building on the Copenhagen waterfront, not far from the Royal Opera / Black Diamond area. I believe it's going to be set aside only for theater productions, leaving the ballet to the old "Gamle Scene" at Kongens Nytorv.

Tonight I braved the streets of Nørrebro and went over to the Literature House for a reading by two Danish authors, the young Marius Nørup-Nielsen and the older Hans Otto Jørgensen. After the two authors read from their new works, a panel of three critics gave their opinions on the texts and took questions from the audience.

The three reviewers were — left to right — Lars Bukdahl, Erik Skyum-Nielsen and Leonora Christina Skov, the middle of whom is my professor for a class on the Theory of the Short Story.

styrkeprover.jpg Marius Nørup-Nielsen’s volume Styrkeprøver is a genre-bending work that consists of many small, apparently disconnected stories. Throughout the work, questions of narrative self-aware arise — memorably dubbed “meta blah blah” by Skyum-Nielsen (using the characteristic Danish pronunciation of blah-blah as blay-blay.) The panel was divided on whether Nørup-Nielsen’s portrayal of young women’s consciousness was a breakthrough in first-person storytelling, or a thin stereotype, or a thin stereotype intended to portray male teenager’s idea of young women. No less divisive was his portrayal of young men, again centering on the question of whether the teenaged voices were authentic or not, and whether authenticity or lack thereof was intentional, intentionally ironic or something in between.

Skyum-Nielsen’s review of Stykreprøver for Information is here. An excerpt from the book, with my English translation following:

Helt stille i skolegården. Det var stadig mørkt, og jeg sad på en bænk under halvtaget. Pedellen kom for at låse op, det blev lyst, og jeg satte mig op i vindueskarmen i gangen på min klases etage. Når skoledagen var halvvejs forbi, i frokostpausen, fandt jeg igen min plads. De andre piger kom til, og vi sluttede en lille ring, åben mod byens virvar bag det store vinduesparti og lukket ind mod gangens barnlige støj og langsommelige pullslag fra dørenes gåen op og i. Vi talte i stedet for at spise, og da vores dimission nærmede sig, var der næsten plads ti, at vi alle kunne sidde i karmen. Vi var mange, og det gjaldt om at have haft færrest kærester. Jeg vandt, for de andre anede ikke, at jeg havde flest. Hverg gang en af pigerne annoncerede en ny hjertenskær, gik der ikke mange fester, før jeg også kunne lægge ham til i mit hemmelige regnskap.

«I vores familie lægger vi stor vægt på ritualer.»

Jeg røg alle mærker. Jeg drak det meste. Jeg var fyldt med oplevelse. Jeg blev hurtigt den ældste i den ældste klasse.

[All quiet in the schoolyard. It was still dark, and I sat on a bench under the roof of the shed. The janitor came to unlock the building, it became light, and I sat up on the windowsill in the hallway on my class’s floor. When the schoolday was half over, during lunch break, I found my place again. The other girls arrived, and we formed a small ring, open to the city’s bustle behind the large window and closed in against the hallway’s childish noise and slow pulse from the doors’ opening and closing. We talked instead of eating, and as our graduation approached, there was almost enough room for us all to sit on the windowsill. There were a lot of us, and it was all about having the fewest boyfriends. I won, because the others didn’t suspect I had the most. Each time one of the girls announced a new beloved, it didn’t take very many parties before I could also put him into my secret ledger.

“In our family we put a great emphasis on rituals.”

I smoked all the brand names. I drank the most. I was full of experiences. I soon became the oldest in the oldest class.]

plads.jpgHans Otto Jørgensen read from his new work Med plads til hundre køer, which is actually the last part of a trilogy. Skyum-Nielsen’s review of the work is here.

Words on the page can’t describe how Jørgensen reads his work; it’s like reciting poetry, with no breaks for paragraphs or hardly even sentences. Goes to show you don’t have to write like a Beat Poet to sound like one when you read aloud. My English translation follows this excerpt:

Det var den støj, han havde forsøgt at ryste ud af Ejnars lyserøde transistorradio, når han om aftenen sad helt inde i den i køkkenet og drejede på knapperne.

Ida mente, det var for at genere hende, og det var det nok også til dels. Han fik en på hovedet og grinede og drejede på knapperne og fik en til og grinede endnu mere, men her, nu, langt om længe, mens Lin sover branderten ud, trænger Lou Reed og hans Loaded igennem og får den sat på en slags formel.

At der er den støj, så rasende og skinger, men at den også har udstrækning. At der er et forløb i det, herfra og dertil.

I found a reason to keep living
And the reason is you
I found a reason to keep singing

And the reason is you

Det er et gennembrud for ham. Det er ikke så meget at snakke om. Som at stavre ud af beværtningen og fide, at der for faen stadig er penge på kontoen.

Det er ikke slut.

Det er til at leve med.

Alt i alt.

At det skulle genre være et lommetørklæde,

Hvis jeg måtte se på et lommetørklæde, et slips. Til en gave.

Vanskligere er det ikke. Det er rimeligt.

Det er muligt, og det er rimeligt. At der er en disk, et kasseapparat. Det er nogle varer, og man kan sige, at den gerne skulle være noget pænt.

At det skal pakkes ind. Det er en gave. Sådan er det tænkt.

Det er ikke til mig selv.

Det er det, han står overfor. Det er den vansklighed. Om det er godt nok. Om det er til at leve med. Om han kan vise sig noget sted igen.

Det er det, Lou Reed gør ved ham. At der på den måde kommer et forløb ud af det. Af alt det der er ham, af alt det han har spildt. At han er så grundigt forladt.

Det sker ikke på en gang. Det er svært at forklare, men ord som lejlighedsvis, af-og-til og senere dækker måske. Det har noget med tid at gøre.

Ikke afstand, men tid. Ikke fylde, men det modsatte af fylde. Noget med at ga sidelæns. Så får vi det derhen, hvor det hører hjemme. I hvert fald er det flytbart, mere end det flytter sig.

Det er en sult, der stilles.

Det er den nål i armen.

Modet til at omgås det banale. At skide i en ble. At være så vred, ude af sig self. At føle sig så ydmyget, så meget alene med det. Det er det, det handler om.

[It was that noise he had tried to shake out of Ejnar’s pink radio, when he sat one evening in the kitchen nearly inside it, turning the knobs.

Ida thought it was it was to annoy her, and it probably was to an extent. He got one on the head and laughed and turned the knobs and got another one and laughed even more, but here, now, at long last, while Lin was sleeping it off, Lou Reed and his Loaded comes out and puts it into kind of a formula:

I found a reason to keep living
And the reason is you

I found a reason to keep singing

And the reason is you

It’s a breakthrough for him. Not much to talk about. Like staring out the window of a pub and knowing that goddamnit, there’s still money in the bank.

It’s not gone.

There’s enough to live with.

All in all.

That it really should be a handkerchief.

If I could just get a handkerchief, a tie. As a present.

It’s no harder than that. It’s reasonable.

It’s possible and reasonable. That there’s a counter, a cash register. Some things for sale — that would be something nice.

That it gets packed in. It’s a gift. Think about it like that.

It’s not for myself.

That’s what he’s facing. That’s the difficulty. If it’s good enough. If it’s enough to live with. If he can show himself anywhere again.

That’s what Lou Reed does to him. That it comes out like a sequence, just like that. From everything that’s him, from everything he’s wasted. That he is so profoundly derelict.

It doesn’t happen all at once. It’s hard to explain, but words like occasional, from time to time, and later will do, maybe. It has something to do with time.

Not distance, but time. Not presence, but the opposite of presence. Something to do with going sideways. So we get to where we belong. It’s movable, anyway, more than it moves.

It’s a hunger that’s quieted.

It’s that needle in your arm.

The fashion of associating with the banal. Like crapping in a diaper. To be so angry, beside yourself. To feel so humiliated, so entirely alone with it. That’s what it’s about.]

Den Blå Port, one of the premiere literary journals, helped put on the event. Tue Andersen Nexø, one of the editors of the magazine, was present and asked quite a few questions — coincidentally, he’s also teaching a class on Welfare State literature I’m taking.

Spring!

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When the weather reaches 50° for two days in a row, it's officially spring and thus time for a clearance sale on winter photos. Today I'll post this shot of a speed skater at the Kongens Nytorv rink, taken back in early February:

Nye Stemmer

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stemmer.jpg OK, enough with the photo entries, on to the literary. I just picked up a copy of Nye stemmer from the bookstore last week on the day it came out, it's the result of the Gyldendal competition to find new authors with "non-Danish backgrounds." Fourteen authors made the cut to be included in the compilation, which has gotten some mixed reviews so far in the press. I've read about 60% of the book so far and will try to put together a review when I have my thoughts collected.

The Louisiana Museum of Modern Art has perhaps the most confusing name of all the museums in Denmark. As you can tell from the pictures below, it's nowhere near the location of New Orleans -- nor the weather. In late Feburary, the Scan|Design Foundation sponsored a trip for the UW students in Denmark to the museum, which is a short train ride north of Copenhagen.


Coördinator Marianne Stølen explains to a disappointed Melissa and Lisa that we're not going to New Orleans

The original estate has been extended throughout the years, including a big expansion since last I was there in 1994. I believe most of the large underground exhibition halls are new, and the café area seems to have a whole new restaurant attached. Despite the snowy weather in Humlebæk, we had a very pleasant lunch near the fireplace -- the salmon salad was recommended by most of our group.

During the summer, you can walk around the extensive grounds and see the sculptures in the collection. Or, if you're brave, you can do the same during the winter, as Alexander Calder sculptures and mobiles hug the Øresund coast:

...not to mention the Richard Serra rolled steel installation...

Back inside, the Concert Hall features seating designed by Poul Kjærholm:

The rest of the photos from the trip are online here.

Jönköping, Sweden

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This is my second post in a row about non-Danish places I've travelled to from Copenhagen; I hope my readership doesn't desert me over the lack of photos of the Little Mermaid statue in the harbor. But I wanted to put some links up to the photos I took while in Jönköping, where I went to see the new theatrical treatment of Moberg's Utvandrarna.

Magnus Ladulås, king from 1275 to 1290, welcomes you to Jönköping.

Along one of the canals, the Grand Hotel projects neoclassical grandeur somewhat at odds with the cozy feeling of the rest of the town.

Kristine Kyrka sits on the southern edge of Lake Vättern.

Göta Hovrätt serves as the Appellete Court for a large district in this part of Sweden.


Reflection of the new Munksjö bridge on the lagoon.

The Grand Hotel, where I did not stay.

A few more pictures are here, I'll try to add to the album as I process more of them.

On a slight southern detour from Copenhagen, I flew to Berlin this Monday to visit some Seattle friends who were traveling through Germany. On our way to a Lebanese restaurant in Kreuzberg, we stuck our heads through the fence on the side of the U-Bahn to see a rainbow arching over the Church of the Holy Cross:

Kirche zum Heiligen Kreuz with Rainbow

Breakfast at Kastrup

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Café eyecon, Kastrup Airport Café eyecon, Kastrup

The flight to Berlin today was one of those early-morning Sterling.dk specials, leaving at 7am to Tempelhof. I was doubtful I'd be able to get anything decent to eat at the Copenhagen airport, but Kastrup came through with Café eyecon, which opened up at 6am to serve a bunch of traveling businessmen and myself.

Once seated, I ordered the kind of complete breakfast I usually don't time to eat in Copenhagen, complete with fresh fruit and greek yoghurt. That's one thing about the long waiting periods imposed by modern air travel: if you can find a way to make the delays work for you, it can be pretty relaxing.

Breakfast at Café eyecon, Kastrup Airport

Ungdomshuset Riots

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Ungdomshuset Blir!
Long Live the Youth House, January 2007

I've been posting a lot of Copenhagen photographs recently, but there have been none of the most dramatic developments here in nearly a decade: the riots for the past three nights over the clearing of the Undgomshus (Youth House) in Nørrebro. Wikipedia actually has a pretty good English-language article on the history of the building. The reason for the lack of pictures here is my decision to stay well out of Nørrebro until things calm down. Which is a shame -- I had been doing most of my grocery shopping there at the smaller ethnic stores. Despite being run by Iraqis, they have really great selections of Indian spices and curries, something my circle of friends have been cooking a lot of.

Melissa & Jana make dinner

(Mostly me, actually, which is pretty strange: I've never cooked so much in my life, for so many other people, as I have here.) Anyway, in addition to the great range of Chinese, Thai and Indian foods, these stores are open really late, even on Sunday, and are very cheap compared to mainstream stores. (An anonymous commentator: "They've declared Jihad on high prices!")

These small, independent stores are no doubt bearing the brunt of the unrest, especially since Nørrebrogade has seen a near constant fight between rock-throwing syndicalists and teargas-discharging police, not to mention cars and dumpsters set on fire, for the past few days -- if they haven't been damaged, then their customers have most certainly disappeared. Nørrebro is the part of the inner city with the strongest immigrant identity, which may have made a pleasingly bohemian backdrop for the young anarchists and utopianists who made up the Youth House's hardcore center, but now is cause for unfortunate unintended results as the radicals' street fight with the police has profoundly negative consequences for one of the city's most diverse and working-class quarters.

Bio

Peter Leonard
Graduate student in Scandinavian Literature at the University of Washington.

2007-08: Fulbright Fellow & Guest Researcher at Uppsala University's Centre for Multiethnic Research.

Spring 2007: Exchange student in Nordic Literature at the University of Copenhagen, Scan|Design Fellow. Intern at Museum Tusculanums Forlag, the University Press.

About this Archive

This page is an archive of entries in the copenhagen2007 category from March 2007.

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